The main objective here is mainly on bathroom installation, particularly on shower or bathtub installation, bathtub enclosure and bathtub surround installation. When anything else, let us look at some common errors and recommended guidelines a part of bathroom installation.
Most Common Mistakes and Guidelines for Bathroom Installation
There are a number of common errors observed from most of the bathroom installation. Here's a list of those errors: bathroom fitters glasgow
• Ignoring or violating local code restrictions
• Employing pipes which can be too small
• Attaching copper to galvanized without having a brass or dielectric fitting forwards and backwards
• Not considering Teflon tape or pipe compound especially at threaded joints
• Not installing a cloak gap filling for fixtures
• Not properly aligning tubing into fitting or stop valves
• Cutting supply stub outs way too short to install the shutoff valves onto after the finished wall is in place
• Not leveling fixtures when setting them up
Now, after knowing those errors, It is best for you to know some of the standards developed by the federal government for those who are thinking of your bathrooms improvement. Note that these standards are highly applicable whether you are planning of designing a bath room for wheelchair or maybe to make the room much more comfortable and functional for anybody with limited mobility. Here are some of the recommended guidelines:
Starting with your entrance to the room, I know you want to make sure that the door are at least 32 inches wide. If the doorway is located off a hallway and you have a wheelchair that must turn from the hall into the doorway, then the door width have to be adjusted to about 36 inches. And if possible, avoid placing threshold in the doorway. However, if a particular threshold is necessary, you try to choose a designated one that is no more than ¼ inch high, or simply one that is beveled on both sides with out greater than ¾ inch high. For those who have a member in the family with limited hand strength, an ordinary door knob can be extremely difficult to grip. So, what's commonly advised is always to select a lever handle, rather than a knob. The height with this handles must be at 48 inches or less above the floor.
Rather than a conventional toilet which can be about 14 to fifteen inches above the floor, you can use accessible toilets that are designed and developed so your seat is between 17 to 19 inches above the floor. For the sink, you may want to make sure that the rim is not any higher than 34 inches above the floor. Aside from that, the sinks should extend out at the very least 17 inches in the rear wall, and the area under the sink has to be opened with a clearance of at least 29 inches beginning from the floor to the bottom of the sink. If in case you want your sink to become installed in a countertop, consider putting it no more than 2 inches in the side of the counter. In accordance with some experts, this promotes maximum accessibility. Additionally, you can employ a protective boot over the water lines and trap under the sink to prevent contact. Use a single-handle, lever-style faucet that is easily operated with one closed fist.
Many homeowners considered the sheet vinyl floors as the best choice. The primary reason for this could be its smooth quality and its being easy to clean. However, if you use a ceramic tile, try and choose large and smooth tiles in order to lessen the grout lines and a few surface irregularities. Also get a non-slip surface texture. And, if you are considering floor carpeting, stick to naps that are ½ inch high or fewer.
This is another advice this sort of wheelchaired. Well, for you to make a 180-degree turn, a wheelchair needs at least 60 inches, that's 5 feet, of clearance. Observe that this amount of clear space is oftentimes challenging to achieve, but look at a T-shaped space instead. Each side of the T has to be at least 36 inches wide. As outlined by some experts this configuration will allow space for a wheelchair in order to comfortably make a three-point turn rather than having to maneuver in a complete circle. In addition to this consideration, try to make pathways to any fixtures at least 36 inches wide. And, with regards to the sink, it must have a clear space in front of it.
Perhaps one of the wonderful features in just about any bathroom will be the grab bars. These even make bathroom safer and much more convenient for anyone to work with. Well, it is worth noting that if you are installing a horizontal grab bar, it must be positioned on the wall behind the bathroom .. You can install a different one on the closet sidewall adjacent to the toilet. Also, the grab bars needs to be placed inside bathtub along with shower enclosures. If you are remodeling or installing new as well as the walls in the room are open, make sure to provide wood blocking in the walls. This will allow simplification with the grab bars' attachment.
Okay, enough about those guidelines. Let's now proceed to some steps to set up your shower or bathtub.
How you can Install Shower and Bathtub
When thinking for installing a bath or bathtub, it is very important to note that the pipes required are the hot as well as cold supply lines, other than a pipe leading to a shower head. Also, many experts often suggest a blending valve and polished brass shower head for the installation, including air chambers.
Usually, the bath or shower fixtures rate reduced fixture units. In order that they are often placed on the branch drains and wet or back vented as are the sinks. Accordingly, the shower stalls and tubs go into the stack at floor level or below as a result of angle of which the bottom drain trap is defined.
When it comes to faucet and polished brass shower head assembly, one should remember that it requires an open wall for installation. Also worth consideration is that, bathtubs and shower stalls may require support framing. One of several common ideas this is that a bathtub filled with water is extremely heavy; therefore, it is important to examine first the building codes, including the framing support prior to bathtub installation. There's also a required floor position for a shower stall. In accordance with some experts, a nominal amount area required is 1,024 square inches, however you should also allow 24 inches from the stall itself to another fixture or wall.
Here are the basic guidelines:
1. All piping must be installed before installing the tub itself.
2. Lower the bathtub into place. This will allow a consistent flange to fit against the wall studs and rests on 1 x 4 or 2 x 4 supports. In terms of this, don't forget to anchor the tub to the enclosure with nails or screws ensconced over the flanges into the studs.
3. Build the drain connections. This can be accomplished by way of attaching the bathtub overflow with the tub drain over the trap, and not beyond it. Observe that the trap will have a compression fitting that screw in the arm of the overflow assembly.
4. Run the recent and cold water lines to the tub or shower mixing valve where they may be attached. You can do this by sweating these straight into the hot and cold ports in the mixing valve.
5. Run a pipe up the wall for that shower head. Note however that on the top of this pipe, you must sweat on a brass female threaded winged fitting that's nailed or screwed into a framing support.
6. A piece of 1/2" pipe should be extended, however, this must be in accordance for the instructions provided by the producer, for the tub spout. Also sweat over a male threaded fitting at the end of the pipe or employ a brass nipple in the proper length as well as a 1/2" cap.
7. Right now, you will need to have your rough plumbing checked.
8. Restore water pressure and inspect the drain connection, such as supply pipes for just about any leaks.
9. Switch the wall with moisture resistant drywall as a base for your wall covering. Important too to note is to seal joints between your wall and your new tub perhaps with silicone caulk. This caulk behaves as protection against water seepage.
10. The next step is to install the handles, shower head and Spout. Note that the polished brass shower head screws onto the shower arm stub out. And, if you are installing a new polished brass shower head or replacing a vintage one, always clean the pipe threads and use a new pipe joint compound. You may also consider a Teflon tape or both to prevent leaks.
Installing a tub Surround
As you may know, a bathtub surround (commonly known as wall kit) is a simple way to provide a handsome, watertight and easy-to-maintain barrier around a tub or shower alcove. These surrounds may be placed up over plaster, tile, drywall or any solid and flat wall. Well, there some surround kits available in the market these days. Most kits contain either three or five pieces that overlap to account for different dimensions. Also, these kits include instructions, that you should consider reading prior to leaving the store. When installing a bath surround, you may require an adhesive as well as color-matched caulk, so consider buying these from the store.
Installing a Bathtub Enclosure
Bathtub enclosures to begin with are a necessary final touch to a drop-in tub or perhaps a whirlpool tub. So, if you are considering any of those kinds of tub, then consider installing an enclosure.
Installing a tub enclosure is actually not as difficult as it looks. It is possible to build it even with a bit skill and of course with the appropriate materials. Consider the following:
Sizes and types
One of the most important considerations in terms of building a bathtub enclosure will be the type of the tub. Particularly, the drop-in bathtubs which are made specifically for bathtub enclosures have been demonstrated to be the best to build around. But, the whirlpool bathtubs will also be great for building enclosures around.
An enclosure is actually necessary to hide the water pipes on both the drop-in and whirlpool tubs. So, it is important that when you consider building one, be sure to work around the plumbing along with the draining systems to prevent interfering with pipes.