Choosing a new DSLR can be truly mind-boggling, particularly when you’re a first time buyer.
Not only do you need to decide between brands, but you need to decide between models, lenses, and accessories – all of which can result in a daunting experience.
That being said, the goal of Nikon DX-format Digital SLR Camera
would be to help make that decision a bit more easy.
I’ve been shooting Nikon since I got into DSLR photography about 5 years ago. as soon as I purchased my first camera (a D5000), the decision was a comparatively simple one: my dad had some Nikon lenses and I didn’t have much cash!
Now a few years after I’m as happy with that conclusion as ever. Nikon’s consistent lens mount size over the years allows you to use lenses and 80s on many of Nikon’s latest DSLR bodies – meaning you'll be able to get quality used glass, at a comparatively inexpensive price.
That’s a conversation for another day, nevertheless.
The bottom line is, you’re going to get a camera that is great with a superb array of lenses with either Canon or Nikon. If you have friends or family that shoot at one or the other, and you’ll be around them regularly, that’s a good enough reason for me to choose either brand.
But since I shoot Nikon, now’s post is about how to select the finest Nikon camera for you all!
Get Past the Hype: Things that Don’t Matter
At the time of this writing Nikon has 4 cameras that you just may be deciding between: The D3200, D5200, D90 or D7100. These are the most current versions, and in some situations you may be considering one that’s a generation elderly in order to save cash – we’ll talk about that.
I’d preferably start out by listing a couple things that you simply should completely stop paying attention to – by doing so nevertheless before we begin going into the individual versions, you’ll make your choice a lot simpler.
Odds are if you haven’t bought a camera in a while, the very first thing you look at when picking out a camera is the megapixel count.
Any new camera will have more than enough megapixels for what you need today. Even one on the lower range that has 10-12 will have enough detail for you to blow your pictures up to poster size seriously, and with no major problems, how frequently are you doing that?
Once you reach 24 megapixels the files sizes arehuge, although it may be nice to have the flexibility. On my D7100, I seldom, if ever, shoot at the highest quality level, merely because it merely isn’t practical.
Total Frame Vs. Cropped Frame
New to photography? Afterward you do look at a full frame sensor. To put it differently, for a Nikon camera you can immediately cease paying attention to the D600, D800, or D4.
They’re enormous. They’re expensive. And unless you’re a professional shooter, they’ll be overkill for what you’re looking for.
Save your money for some new lenses and quit thinking about those entirely.
To help set your mind at ease you ought to know that Nikon’s most affordable DSLR the D3200 has image quality that in most shooting situations will be close to as great as that on their most high-priced camera, the D4. Other things professionals need, and most of what you’re getting with cameras that are more high-priced is more options, on camera controls and you likely don’t.
This may matter for a select few of you, but for most of you, it should be a nonissue.
The point is, have you ever actually shot on video on a DSLR? Most beginners haven’t. It’s not easy.
The sound is dreadful, the auto-focus doesn’t work in a manner that is usable, like using a camcorder or your phone and it’s nothing.
If you want a good camera that does video, check out a pocket camera like the Canon S110 – which is simple to use and shoots superb video.
Then a DSLR can be a great way to break into a more professional video set up, knowing what you’re doing and have some additional equipment. But if all you need to do is film your kids, you’d be best searching elsewhere.
Does all that make sense? Great, happy we’ve got that cleared up. Now, let’s get you a camera!
Finding the Best Camera for Your Needs
I’m going to look at the various kind of users of Nikon cameras and allow you to find a camera based on what you identify with the most instead of regurgitate all the technical specs of each camera for you.
Greatest Photo Quality at the Cheapest Price Possible?
The quality from an entry level DSLR will match that of their more expensive counterparts, as I mentioned earlier, in good lighting, for most uses. So if all you actually need is good image quality and aren’t wanting to break the bank, then pick up the Nikon D3200.
If you’re genuinely concerned about cost, you can likely find refurbished versions, or the older D3100 which is still an excellent camera. You’re giving some build quality from the higher end cameras, if you go with that, and the screen is a much lower resolution than the newer model.
Don’t get the D3000, there was nothing very impressive about it.
Without Breaking the Bank experienced DSLR User Wanting to Upgrade?
Let’s face it, price is an issue for most folks. So let’s say you’re ready to go past your D3100 or D5000 you’ve had for a couple years, to something more representative of your experience degree. You’ve got a few lenses, but still don’t want to overspend.
Consider a D7000. Many of the upgrades that were made will be negligible to the average user, but the image quality will be comparable to the D7100, although it’s not the newest camera on the block.
I’ve seen body only D7000 going for as low as $649, which is nearly half the cost of a new D7100.
The D7000 is a big step up in relation to features and build quality from any one of the cameras in the 3000 or 5000 line, so don’t shy away from this just because it’s a couple years old.
It ’s also worth noting that while it’s 5 years old, the D90 is broadly accessible and is a great camera for the cost. It lacks some of the characteristics of the D7000 line that is newer, but is an excellent step up from Nikon’s entry level cameras when it comes to controls.
Beginning HDR Photographer?
You can do HDR with any camera that enables you to set manual controls, nevertheless you’re going to need something that's bracketing assembled in, if you’re serious about it.
This means your camera can automatically shoot 3 images at varying exposures, generally one at normal exposure, then one one over exposed, and finally underexposed.
You can then use HDR software to create one image that is perfectly exposed.
The D3200 doesn’t do bracketing, so for the beginning HDR photographer you’ll need to pick up a D5200 or if cash is more of an issue a D5100. A couple of years ago I learned HDR on my D5000 while and it was a great intro camera. It had a menu system that I was used to with a point and shoot, but a customizable function button that let me easily turn on bracketing.
Experienced HDR Photographer?
If you’re a more experienced HDR photographer, then you definitely should only pick up the D7100.
There are a couple key characteristics that make this a better camera for HDR.
First, you can shoot 5 picture brackets. You’ll learn that 3 mounts often is to get the range of light you'll need, as you get better at HDR. The D7100 makes it simple to add two more pictures.
Additionally, it shoots at up to 7 frames per second, so if you’re trying to shoot mounts on the fly and don’t have a tripod – this will get you much better results (although you should still use a tripod).
The plethora of on customization capabilities and camera controls will make setting up pictures much simpler and suits itself to a more experienced photographer.
Worth noting that the D7000 only does 3 exposure brackets, thus in this case I believe it’s worth checking out the D7100.
Upgrading from Point and Shoot to first DSLR?
If you ’ve been using a point and shoot at your entire life, upgrading to a DSLR can be a bit of a daunting task. Don’t worry though, it doesn’t need to be!
The best part about the D3200 for beginners is that it’s really menu based. The camera can do much of what it’s bigger siblings can, but much of it's still in easy to navigate menus – just like in your point and shoot. There’s even a question button which will clarify what different features of the camera do if you’re unsure.
Then the D5200 is worth taking a look at if you’re needing to have a little more control, but still keep the intimacy of a menu based camera. It'll definitely give you more room to grow than the D3200.
Have Lots Of Nikon Lenses from Your Movie Days 20 Years Ago?
For instance my aunt has an old 50mm f/1.2 that I’ve been striving to get on “long period loan” for awhile now. This lens wouldn’t have metered on either my old D5000or D90. With either the D7000 or D7100 yet, almost any lens from 1977 or newer will both meter and autofocus.
So if you've got an array of old lenses, don’t sell them away just yet, you may just need a fresh camera body.
Want Professional Features, but On a Budget?
Here you have a couple options. You might be tempted to snag D300 that was used for less than the price of some of the newer cameras. On the surface this appears like a great idea. You’re getting incredible build a less expensive price –, more manual features, and quality but I’d think about doing this.
The D300 is an old camera. You’ll get better pictures, and many progress in camera technology have been made and many more usable attributes in a D7100 than one of Nikon’s older cameras.
Stick with the D7100 which is still nearly half the price of the cheapest complete frame camera the D600 – and they ’re essentially the same in terms of features.
Seeming to Do Photography and More Serious Video?
If you’re truly seriously interested in video, I hate to say this, but contemplate changing to Canon. I’m a Nikon man through and through, and I also do lots of video. The video quality on a D7100 or even D5200 is incredible. But there are particular features that become a little deal breaker.